![]() ![]() Make the engine is cold, remove the spark plug, turn the engine over by hand slowly until you can feel compression at the plug hole, use a soda straw through the hole to verify the piston is at TDC. To adjust the valves, it's a lot easier if you remove the gas tank - gives you a lot more room and much easier to see. New seals can be found at or CheapCycle. Remove the bolt that retains the shaft, pull out the shaft, use a screwdriver to lever out the old seal, press in a new seal using a socket of about the same diameter, replace shaft and retention bolt. Yes, there is an oil seal around the compression release arm shaft. Is there a seal there that I can replace, where do I get one, and is it a pain to do it? Any tips for finding the right position for a guy who has never done it before?Īlso, oil drips from the compression release arm on the head. It seems like it is not precise to eyeball the position of the rocker arm. I am still a bit iffy on where to put the piston for checking. This is networking at its finest! So the valve clearances are for a cold engine then (.002)- right? I have been looking at the manual for adjusting valve clearance. Thanks so much for the great ideas I will try them all. That's where most of my special Honda six-point wrenches and valve adjuster tools came from. Without the right tools it can be mission impossible.īTW, you can often find Honda and other OEM special wrenches and tools from the factory toolkit for cheap in the pile-O-tools at a pawn shop. It's not rocket science, but adjusting Honda valves is not easy for beginners either. I usually just turn a motor by hand until the valve in question is opened and then shuts, and go about 90 degrees more to be sure it's on the low part of the cam lobe. Make sure you are at the top of the compression stroke, not the exhaust stroke when the TDC or F mark is visible. It's a standard o-ring that can be bought at most auto and farm machinery parts stores. New O-rings on the access caps are always a good idea. 002 feeler blade by itself, removed from the flip out tool, and a very stubby flat blade screwdriver. You will usually need a six-point box end wrench to remove the access caps without damaging them, and the intake is almost inaccessible due to the proximity of a frame rail. Here is a link to a great site with links to downloadable PDF repair manuals: Īnd a link to another page on the above site with a basic online course in motorcycle and ATV repair: Īdjusting the valve clearance on your Honda ATC185s is not an easy task. I have very little money for this project. Could really use all new plastics for a full restore- but I probably won't go that far. Does anyone out there have a parts bike? The lights are missing, needs front brake cable and hand lever. I need a few things for it to make it complete. I will probably sell it when I get it fixed up. After riding it though, I am thinking it might kill somebody- it is very fast. ![]() I originally wanted to fix this trike for the kids to use. Is there a seal there that I can replace? See the picture. Could this be part of the coil problem? I have also discovered a leak- looks like it is coming from the decompression lever on the head. It also stays revved sometimes and won't come back to idle. Not enough zip at low RPM pull rope to spark it. It will start if I roll it down a hill and throw it in gear. I have cleaned the carb and adjusted the chain. I could use some advice on fixing this trike. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |